...that song came on in the bar we were in last night - I'd never really listened to it properly before. Does anyone know who wrote it?

Well, it's been a little while since the last blog (I'm sure you were all waiting with baited breath), and we're down in Memphis right now. Got the overnight train from Chicago - very pleasant, if a little cramped. We arrived at 5.30am, Sam told me the station looked like Maidenhead. Not a good start. (later on he said the town looks like Windsor, hmmmm...)

We did all the things you do in Memphis, apart from see Graceland. The guy in the taxi from the station said "yauw guys gonna go to Graceland?" To which Sam curtly replied "nah, I don't really like Elvis". Great job.

After breakfast at TGI Fridays, we went to the Gibson guitar factory, and then the museum of rock and soul. Saw WC Handy's house and strolled up and down Beale St (the heart of Memphis downtown, so the guide book tells us). I won't bore you with the detail, but that was the cultured bit.

In the evening, we went to the BASEBALL!! Now that was an experience to treasure. It was the Memphis Redbirds against the Nashville Sounds - clearly a derby clash to provoke a fierce rivalry amongst fans. At least that's what we thought until we arrived. It's quite a big stadium but it was also VERY empty. We should have realised why we were given free tickets for the game at the museum earlier in the day. People don't seem to get into the game like good old English football fans. They sit, drink a Bud, eat some popcorn, and wait for the pom pom dancers between innings. I'm sure if we did baseball in the UK we'd be doing that thing they do at the football where the crowd go "ooooooOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHH - YOU'RE S**T AAAAAAGGGGHHH" when someone takes a run up to kick the ball. We were trying to drum up something similar around us before every pitch, but they weren't having any of it. Besides, there were children present, and I don't think our sharp wit penetrated the locals.

We didn't stay till the end, it's such a slow game (actually worse than cricket) and we were losing 5-1. On to BB King's...

Apparently, BB King was in Memphis a couple of nights ago, playing at his club. Not so last night, although there was an exceptionally funky house band playing some Curtis Mayfield, Stevie Wonder, and Prince. Sam ate some catfish, I tried to sing along to "Kiss" (it's not really my range) and we grooved the night away. But by 1am, everything shut down. I thought Memphis was the place that grooved all night long, but Beale St seemed to do it's bit for the tourists and chuck everyone out onto the street at 1. A bit like England I suppose. Perhaps Sam wasn't so far off the mark about Maidenhead after all...?

So much for Memphis. We're about to check out of our hotel here and get our hire car - this is the moment I've been waiting for all trip! This afternoon we'll be crusing down Highway 61 with Muddy Waters wailing out of the speakers. 1-2-3... HELL YEAH!!

Next stop, Clarksdale, and "those" crossroads.